Installation bannister

I never screw straight through the top of a handrail or anywhere it will be clearly visible even if the stairs are being painted! Unless the stairs are cut string and the spindles sit on the treads, you will need to fix a base rail on the string or landing for the spindles to fit into. In the majority of cases the base rail and handrail will be identical, so getting the base rail right is good practice before starting to cut the handrail, and you can then even use the base rail as a pattern to mark the handrail length.

To cut this to length, put a bevel where the string meets the post to find the plumb cut angle. Cut this angle onto the bottom of a length of base rail. Put the bottom on the string where it needs to be, hold the top in line and mark the end where it meets the post to cut off. I usually cut the top of the base rail to length but leave the pencil line in a little, as you can always trim a little more off if it's too long.

Take a spirit level and check that the newel posts are level. If they are leaning away from each other slightly they're not always perfectly upright then the handrail will need to be slightly longer than the base rail. I always cut two spindles to length to rest the handrail on so it is exactly the same height at both ends. First, I mark a line on the bottom post mm up from the pitch line. Locate the studs in the walls. Cut a piece of wood that fits the bottom of the banister.

Screw the mounting strip onto the wall. Apply painter's tape to the areas of the wall that are near the mounting strip. Stain the mounting strip. The color should match the banister. Be sure to apply 2 coats of stain. Cut the banister to fit the staircase. Measure the total amount of wood that you will need to fit the staircase.

Use a power saw to cut the banister. Miter the ends of the banister. Use a miter box to do so and follow the instructions that apply to the brand that you choose. Apply the banister to the mounting strip. Mark evenly spaced areas on the painter's tape that you will use to screw it in. These should not coincide with the holes that you drilled for the mounting strip.

Screw the banister into place. Miter a cap for each end of the banister. Use a stud finder to locate the center of each stud in the wall where you are installing the handrail. Mark the location of the studs. Determine how many brackets you need. You need one at the top and one at the bottom.

You also need additional brackets, spaced no more than 4 feet apart in the middle of the handrail to provide additional support. Make a vertical mark on the chalk line over the studs where you intend to hang the brackets. Extend the lines slightly more, using a torpedo level, to help keep the vertical lines plumb.

This helps you align both the top and bottom holes of the brackets and to keep the brackets over the studs. Drill pilot holes into the wall using the bracket as a guide. Repeat for all the brackets. Set the wooden handrail in place on the brackets. Cuts the hand rail installation time Competitive Edge. Ultra light extrusion aluminum. Made in the USA Patent Developed by an experienced professional. Ken Bunn Sr. From the patent Patent No.

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